Before the kebab took over…

Nowadays, after a night out in Spain, it’s the most common thing to end up devouring a sad kebab, a greasy durum, or some terrible slice of pizza. Don’t get me wrong: I love döner and pizza, but late-night Spain is not the place neither the time for getting good of those… Unfortunately, it’s just the only choice nowadays.

It didn’t use to be like this.

As a ‘90s kid raised in Vigo, Galicia, I remember my absolute favourite spot to kill the hunger right before passing out in bed. I couldn’t tell you the name — branding wasn’t the priority — but I remember everything else. A tiny spot, just enough room for an open kitchen, a narrow bar, and a line of people stretching into the street.

Two guys kept it running. One managed the orders and drinks. The other, a sweaty and fat (but fast and talented) chef, worked a massive 3-meter plancha alone. On the left, high heat seared bacon, pork loin, chicken, burgers, sausages, and beef. Some with cheese melting on top after the first flip. The center was for eggs, omelettes, and anything that needed a medium heat. On the right, barras of bread and buns, warmed just enough to hold the fillings.

The menu was an endless list… combining plenty of ingredients into bocadillos, burgers, hot dogs, and sandwiches (in Spain, sandwich refers to those made with sliced toast bread instead of a barra). Somehow, even at five in the morning, the guy kept track of every order, every combination, every topping. And it all came out fast and f** delicious. Every single time.

People — most likely foreigners— sometimes think bocadillos are too plain. That’s exactly the point. No tricks, no overcomplication — just solid ingredients cooked by someone who knows how to do it properly. That’s what Spanish food does best.

Nowadays, I’m afraid bocaterías are not the kings of the late-night munchies anymore. But the good news: there are still plenty of good bocaterías all over Spain, working on a regular restaurant schedule.

And hey… comparing them to nowadays competitors: Bocaterías are cheaper, faster and even way healthier than any other trendy fast food.

Next time you are craving greasy fast food… make yourself a favour and type ‘‘bocaterías cerca de mí’’ on Google Maps.

RECIPE OF THE WEEK

Lomo pimientos queso… An iconic combo, reinvented (again)

Following this newsletter’s theme — Spanish bocadillos — this week’s recipe is my take on a reinvented classic.

Pork loin, piquillo peppers, and melted cheese is a combination that never fails… But in this version, we take it to the next level with two little upgrades:

The brine

This technique is a game-changer for lean cuts like loin. Thanks to the magic of osmosis, the brine penetrates the meat, adding flavor and locking in moisture. It’s the perfect way to sear the loin, get that beautiful golden color, and still preserve some juiciness inside.

Confiting piquillo peppers

I learned this trick in the Basque Country, where piquillos confitados are often served alongside a txuleta, as the perfect side dish.

Confit means cooking in fat at under 100°C. The texture of anything you confit is almost hypnotic… And if, after that, you throw the peppers in the oven — or air fryer — to toast and caramelize them? The result is a party of textures and flavors that makes this “side dish” feel like the main event.